I've learned a lot in three weeks on the road. So much that I think I need to write it down. So I'm starting a new blog called "Pack Left: Things I've learned to help you pack RIGHT!" This blog is just going to be a huge list of the things that I think will help make people (myself included) better travelers and vacationers. I'm going to post every rule as a different post, so there will be twenty-odd posts popping up here soon. Take a look and let me know what you think!
Yes, he is a legend. Now:
I couldn't get off the platform at Castellon.
That kind of ruined the picturesqe hug I had planned on when I seen Isaias Alonso for the first time in half a decade. I walked up the stairs to the exit, seen Alonso and his girlfriend approaching and walked straight into the glass gate! Apparently I was supposed to have a train pass to scan to get out, but since I was traveling via EuRail, I had to actually get checked out. So, the railway guy let me out and THEN I got my epic hug! I can't express how great it was to see Alonso's smile! We took a few photos and walked back to his place.
Now, I know he's going to read this, so I want to be clear, I'm not just talking him up!
The hospitality I had was wonderful, I couldn't have asked for more and I see Mr. Alonso as a friend now, more than a former teacher. He arranged for my laundry, internet access and everything else I needed, and asked what I wanted for dinner. I had yet to experience a traditional Spanish meal and that sounded good for the night. A delicious Spanish meal is exactly what he made for me; it was the best thing I've eaten this entire trip! (Though I may be a be just a little biased, as I haven't eaten as much as normal for the past few weeks. Either way, it was incredibly good!) He even opened up a special bottle of wine for me – totally uncalled for – and a friend of his joined us shortly after dinner. We talked and caught up all night before going to bed late in the night. It was one of the best nights I've had the entire trip. Probably one of the best nights I will have. (Thanks, Isaias!)
I slept very well that night, until nine the next morning. Having a good bed does that. I arose for yet another giant meal put together by Alonso. All sorts of breakfast foods and some Spanish sausage for the calories I'd burn while walking around Barcelona (though, I didn't end up in Barcelona til late that night). I packed my things and we walked down to the train station to try and catch the 11:45 train to Barcelona. The train was full until six, however, but Mr. Alonso and his girlfriend were happy to spend the rest of the day guiding me around downtown Castellon. We were still talking and catching up the entire time (lots can happen in five years!), it made me realize how important it is to keep up with old friends, as well as how important it is to visit them. (On a side note, I'll be starting another blog soon to include these things I've learned about travel. I'll keep you posted.)
Around two, after our tour of the city, we had worked up an appetite. I was then treated to the best Chinese food I had ever eaten around the corner from Alonso's apartment. It was an upscale place that served meals in tapas stye: huge plates to be shared amongst the table. Just two plates was more than I could eat! We finished up and headed back for a nap before I left.
As we walked toward the station nearing six and as with all the rest of the cities and places I have visited, I was not yet ready to leave. Especially so since I had a real friend this time (well, old friend – I've made plenty of real friends along the way) who was so welcoming. It's one of the best feelings I've ever had to see somebody I know on the road, made even better for half a decade of his absence.
Thank you for a fantastic day, Señor Alonso! Whatever wild city I land in years from now, I hope you come visit me so I can return the favor!
I stepped off the train into Valencia Nord at half past noon on the 22nd. The first thing I noticed was the ceiling of the station. People had told me to look up, so of course, I did. The ceiling was beautiful. I didn't look for long, though, nor did I take any photos. I had very little time in Valencia, so I took straight off to the hostel. The first thing I noted out the door was the giant bullring to the right, which I would be going to later that evening. I had missed the one in Madrid; I wasn't going to pass up the opportunity to see a bullfight in Spain.
As I walked into the main square, I had an intense feeling of deja vu. It felt like Hawaii! There were tall, beautiful buildings standing upon spotless streets, fountains of all sizes and tropical greenery everywhere. It was a second Waikiki. I continued across the square, in awe of the grandeur of the place and found my hostel, tucked in a back alley. The hostel had good ratings, but I didn't feel initially comfortable walking home down a lonely back alley at night. Southern Spain was far from the safest place to be. Fortunately, the staff in the hostel were very helpful and friendly, even going so far as to write me out a route of the best things to see in Valencia on a day trip.
This time, I had no guided tour. Back to exploring! I went directly to the market (which was the primary interest point of the staff girl) and was shocked. This was nothing like the “market” in Madrid. Housed in a century old building, there were vendors selling fresh fruits, meats and more EVERYWHERE! Best of all, it was dirt cheap! I loaded up on some fruit for a couple euros and had my food for the afternoon. I wandered around the city all after afternoon, seeing everything there was to see (which included a photo request from two “hobos” and tons of gorgeous graffiti). Valencia, though it is full of people, is only half an hour's walk across the city center. Outside of that it is very drab.
I arrived back at the hostel at five to cool off before my bullfight and left to get tapas before the show at 6:30. Once again, the hostess didn't speak English, so I resorted to pointing at signs to get what I wanted.
The bullfight was at seven. I approached the stadium to see a crowd of animal rights protesters engulfed by the people flowing into the stadium. I made my way past them and settled in my seat. The bullfight started with all kinds of music and cheering as the six matadors pranced into the ring. This was going to be awesome!
Little did I know what I had paid to see.
There were six fights, all of which were very similar. It began with a bull being released into the ring amongst the six matadors. Two padded horses would come into the ring, provoke the bulls to charge, and the riders would stab the bulls in the back. The performing fighter would then proceed to stab the bull with six colorful harpoons, followed by the dance. At the end of the fight, the matador would plunge a sword into the back of the bull, killing it. The crowd would cheer like wild and the matador would accept hats, flowers and gloves as he walked around the ring.
Gruesome, tormenting and definitely not something I'd go see often, if ever again. Two hours of bullfighting was enough of a Spanish experience for me, so I returned to my hostel to spend the evening talking with a couple of guys from (none other than!) the Netherlands.
I slept in late the next morning and arose to wander over to the art and science complex Valencia is so famous for. It was quite a walk along the park, but well worth it. The park in Valencia is a former river, dried up and converted. It runs through the north part of the city and the largest park I have ever seen! I finally arrived to a breathtaking view of the arts and sciences complex and wandered around for an hour or so. The prices were a bit high for me, so seeing the amazing architecture would suffice.
I continued on to the beach and hung out for a while (seeing more kinds of boobs than I ever wanted to) and boarded the train to Castellon at six.
My third day in the Spanish capital was decidedly chill.
I had yet to actually see the city, so I rolled out of bed for the free tour at 11:15. This one was not a New Europe Free tour and it was free for a reason. Our tour guide wasn't all that great, but following her around for an a few hours did give me an opportunity to see all the sights of the city. I even got some free cookies from some nuns!
The tour walked us back to hostel by about two and I spent a good portion of the afternoon chatting with several of the people Id met the night before. I had spent so much time partying in Madrid that spending time in a place that felt like home with friends was very enjoyable. After a while on the road alone, you need to recoup for a day.
At five, Frenchie and I decided we wanted to take a trip to the public pool. We rounded up Kinero and the remaining two of the three Germans and headed out. It was a relaxing way to spend the afternoon and there was never a dull moment with the company I had. When we left, Kinero discovered his money had been stolen (AGAIN! This poor guy had the worst luck in Madrid.) from his bag. We searched around a bit, with no luck, and headed home.
There was to be no going out for the night. I was leaving for Valencia at 8:45 the following morning and the Germans were heading for Barcelona just as early. We packed our things up and left around ten for some food and a couple of one euro beers. But the bar was full, so we settled for kebaps. It was the first time I had ever had a kebap. I can't figure out why they don't have them back home. They're cheap and very good. Kind of like a pita, but better. We spent the walk back telling people on the street we were homosexual Muslims when they tried to get us into the clubs and bars (which was hilarious), said our goodbyes, and hit the sack.
I'm going to miss Madrid.
My second day in Madrid wasn't even spent in Madrid. Myself and eight other guys had decided the previous night to take trip to Toledo, the former Spanish capital.
Our group was an mix of culture: four Americans (one of which was from Mexico), three Germans, a guy from Portugal and Frenchie. Myself, Kinero, Forrest and George made up the American portion. I've already mentioned Kinero, Forrest was a traveler from Texas who had spent a year in Brazil and George was a half Mexican flight attendant who had taken a spur of the moment trip to Madrid because it only cost him $36. The three Germans were just as fun. Very smart guys who were just traveling for the party. The Portuguese man didn't speak much and then, there was Frenchie. I cannot begin to aptly describe this guy in my blog, my keyboard would wear out before I finished.
After our previous night, we managed to grab a bus at noon and arrived in Toledo at one. What a city! Honestly, there isn't much in Toledo. Actually, beyond the age and the famous cathedral, there's nothing. Fortunately, these two things and my new found friends made the day the great. We had no map of the city, so most of the day was spent wandering aimlessly trying to find the attractions we were searching for. The first thing we found was the library tower.
We asked a local tour guide for directions, we discovered that the public library tower, which provides a beautiful view of the city, was not open to tourists. So we split ourselves into three groups and paraded into the library as “students” looking for “books.” And it worked. We took the elevator to the cafe at the top of the tower to find a gorgeous view of the old city and the surrounding Spanish hillside.
The international circus paraded down the tower and over to the Catholic cathedral, the main attraction of Toledo. Entry was seven euros, so Forrest and I were the only two who decided to go in. I'm so glad I did. This church was by far the most beautiful I had ever seen. The art and detail surpassed that of Notre Dame and Sacre Cour combined and there was still more. Huge stone sculptures. Entire murals carved from wood. Gold gilded decor. Paintings eight stories tall. It was worth every cent.
We ended our trip to Toledo with trip up another church tower and a cheap dinner and headed home.
When we got back to the hostel at seven, I needed to do laundry. I sent the rest of the group out without me. I told them I'd catch up when my laundry was done. However, I couldn't locate them in the bar they had went to, so I went back to the hostel. Thankfully, they came back to get me! We drank around the hostel bar for a while and decided to go out with the Cat's pub crawl at one. Two bars and one club kept us up until 5 that morning, but as long as Madrid was going this good, I didn't need sleep!
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